Vermillion Cliffs National Monument: An otherworldly place

Massive cliffs. Deep slot canyons. Unimaginably contorted rock formations. Vivid colors. Otherworldly. Amazing. Beautiful.

All these and more describe — yet fail to describe — the Vermillion Cliffs National Monument and the Paria Plateau.

The VCNM was established in November 2000 by a Presidential proclamation from existing public lands already under the management of the Bureau of Land Management (BLM). At that time, the beauty of this place was known mostly to locals, ranchers, explorers, and a few photographers. Since then, however, it has become famous world wide. Years ago I was surprised to see a poster advertising a lecture and slide show with a picture from the VCNM posted to a kiosk in Europe. At that time, some of the best information on this place could be found on European web sites. Apparently, Americans hadn’t yet discovered it.

Deep within the confines of Buckskin Gulch, Vermillion Cliffs National Monument.
Deep within the confines of Buckskin Gulch, Vermillion Cliffs National Monument.

A friend worked for the BLM in this area some years ago and would tell me about these amazing places but was hesitant to give directions how to get there for fear that increased crowds would damage the area. He was right, of course, but in todays Internet world and digital cameras it’s become challenging to keep a “secret spot” secret.

Lollipop Rock, White Pocket, Vermillion Cliffs National Monument.
Lollipop Rock, White Pocket, Vermillion Cliffs National Monument.

Over the years we have visited Buckskin Gulch a couple of times traveling slowly down canyon while taking photographs but have yet to complete the entire trek to Paria Canyon. Perhaps if I travel without the camera I might make better time.

Sunset at White Pocket, Vermillion Cliffs National Monument.
Sunset at White Pocket, Vermillion Cliffs National Monument.

We’ve also visited Coyote Buttes North and seen the Wave back in the day when permits were relatively easy to obtain. At least it was for us because a friend gave us his permits which he could not use. But we haven’t been to Coyote Buttes South yet.

Sunset and reflection at White Pocket, Vermillion Cliffs National Monument.
Sunset and reflection at White Pocket, Vermillion Cliffs National Monument.

And, just recently, we finally made it to White Pocket. Travel to this location requires an adequate vehicle with appropriate driving skills. I have neither. So we chose to hire a guide and outfitter to take us there for the day. Sure, it cost a bit of money but it’s cheaper than getting stuck!

Deep and narrow: Buckskin Gulch, Vermillion Cliffs National Monument.
Deep and narrow: Buckskin Gulch, Vermillion Cliffs National Monument.

We encountered about a dozen other people there that day. I guess that’s a large crowd for this location. But the crowds are certain to increase with time and a permit system seems inevitable. Best to visit sooner — rather than later.

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