A Return to Death Valley National Park

My first visit to Death Valley National Park was in January 2014. At that time, I noted that “…I would like to return–soon–and visit many of the other wonderful locations in Death Valley National Park…” Well, it turned out “soon” was more than three years later but we finally made a return visit.

With the significant amount of rain that has occurred across the American Southwest this winter I was hopeful that there would be another wildflower “super bloom” comparable to that which occurred in 2016. But either we were too early or it just doesn’t happen two years in a row. So we were disappointed with the scarcity of wildflowers.

Dante's View of Panamint Range and Badwater Basin.
Dante’s View of Panamint Range and Badwater Basin.

Still, it’s hard to be disappointed for long when visiting Death Valley National Park. So much to see—and usually not enough time to see it all. On this trip we visited a few of the sites that we saw in 2014 but we also visited places we had not been to before.

Our first stop as we entered the Park was Dante’s View. The view from this high point is expansive and includes the Panamint Range and the Badwater Basin regions—where the lowest elevation in the United States occurs (–282 feet; –86 m).

Our next destination was supposed to be Badwater Basin but we got sidetracked along the way and ended up at Desolation Canyon. We hiked here then continued on our way to Badwater Basin, arriving—barely—in time for sunset.

Textured landforms of Zabriskie Point.
Textured landforms of Zabriskie Point.
The Narrows of Desolation Canyon.
The Narrows of Desolation Canyon.
Desolation Canyon.
Desolation Canyon.

Because of the rains this winter Badwater Basin was wet and the famous polygonal shapes in the crust were not present. Instead, it was more like a giant basin of slushy salt. As the sun was setting, the wave clouds over the Panamint Range took on a variety of colors that made for interesting photographs.

Badwater Basin at sunset.
Badwater Basin at sunset.

The following morning we made a trip to Mesquite Sand Dunes for sunrise. The rising sun and shapes of the dunes can make for amazing photographs—especially if you can find a place without footprints. The longer it has been since the last windy period the harder it is to find pristine sand. In some locations the polygon-cracked clay of an ancient lakebed forms the floor and makes for an interesting contrast with the dunes. Regardless of the conditions it’s hard to go wrong in this location.

Mesquite Sand Dunes.
Mesquite Sand Dunes.
Sand dunes and polygon-cracked clay deposits.
Sand dunes and polygon-cracked clay deposits.
Sunlight and shadow draped across the Mesquite Sand Dunes.
Sunlight and shadow draped across the Mesquite Sand Dunes.

After a late breakfast we struck out for the west side of the park with a destination of Darwin Falls. It’s always amazing to see running water—and waterfalls—in a desert environment. We spent a long time in this lush and green environment.

Running water in Death Valley.
Running water in Death Valley.
Darwin Falls, Death Valley National Park.
Darwin Falls, Death Valley National Park.
Standing water in Panamint Valley.
Standing water in Panamint Valley.

On the way back to Stovepipe Wells Village we found ourselves driving up Emigrant Canyon Road and out to the Eureka Mine and Aguereberry Point. The NPS guide says a high clearance vehicle is needed because of rock outcrops and a rocky section in the final 1/2 mile. I’m glad I didn’t read that in advance or I would never have bothered. It turns out the road is in great shape (March 2017) and any passenger vehicle can make the journey. I guess they must have done some recent road improvements. Lucky for us!

Eureka Mine, Death Valley National Park.
Eureka Mine, Death Valley National Park.
Badwater Basin from Aguereberry Point.
Badwater Basin from Aguereberry Point.

The next morning we attempted the sunrise over the sand dunes again. We had learned from yesterdays visit where we might find dunes without footprints–or, at least, not many footprints. Indeed, some of the most interesting footprints we did find were from the nocturnal animals that wander the dunes at night.

Mesquite Sand Dunes illuminated by moonlight.
Mesquite Sand Dunes illuminated by moonlight.
Mesquite Sand Dunes at sunrise.
Mesquite Sand Dunes at sunrise.
Mesquite Sand Dunes at sunrise.
Mesquite Sand Dunes at sunrise.
Animal tracks on the sand dunes.
Animal tracks on the sand dunes.

Later we traveled north towards Ubehebe Crater. Along the way, we crossed over Grapevine Canyon Wash which had a devastating flood in October 2015. As a result, the road up Grapevine Canyon as well as Scotty’s Castle remain closed until repairs can be made. The debris field that is still evident from the main road is very impressive. At the crater we were motivated to hike down into the crater itself. Even going down was tough because of the loose cinders. Going up? Yeah, that was work.

Ubehebe Crater panoramic composite.
Ubehebe Crater panoramic composite.
Wildflowers on the road to Beatty, Nevada.
Wildflowers on the road to Beatty, Nevada.

As we left the park via the road to Beatty, Nevada, we saw our second wildflower of the trip. Yep, two wildflowers in four days. Not much of a season yet. Hopefully it will get better.

Summer Vacation 2016 — Part IV: Mount Baker

It was finally time to move to another area in the North Cascades and we decided that Mount Baker would provide some interesting hikes.

We departed the Cascades Pass Road and returned to Marblemount NPS Ranger Station to refill our water bottles. Unfortunately, their water system had problems and was not safe to drink. It’s interesting that all the campsites and campgrounds we visited either had no water or had water problems. Luckily, we carried a 5-gallon jug of water and still had enough for a few more days.

We stopped at the USFS Ranger station on our way to Mount Baker to get water–and it was closed for scheduled maintenance. But there was water available outside so we finally had a chance to refill.

Panoramic view on the start of the trail with <a href='https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mount_Shuksan' target='_blank'>Mt. Shuksan (left)</a> and <a href='https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mount_Baker ' target='_blank'>Mt. Baker (right)</a>.
Panoramic view on the start of the trail with Mt. Shuksan (left) and Mt. Baker (right).
Wildflowers along Ptarmigan Ridge Trail.
Wildflowers along Ptarmigan Ridge Trail.

Continue reading →

Summer Vacation 2016 — Part III: Northern Cascade Mountains

We thought that we were almost there and that it would only be a short trip from the Columbia River Gorge to the Northern Cascade mountains. Wrong, again. There’s a lot of terrain to cover between these two locations. So we drove east on I-84 until we could cross the river on Highway 97 then north to Yakima, Washington. We stopped to load up on current maps (our highway maps of this area are old!). The good folks at the Visitor Center recommended a visit to Leavenworth–a Bavarian-style city. So we did. It was…um….interesting.

And, still, we had a long ways to drive.

We stopped in Winthrop—which had a nice grocery store—to stock up on food supplies for the next several days. Heading west we encountered several campgrounds—all full to capacity. It’s the beginning of the weekend so we weren’t too surprised. We finally drove down a Forest Service road to a trail head and decided this would be our camping spot for the night.

We’re finally in the Cascades. Dang—that took a long time to get here!

Sunrise on Liberty Bell Mountain.
Sunrise on Liberty Bell Mountain.
Sibley Creek on Cascade Pass Road.
Sibley Creek on Cascade Pass Road.

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Summer Vacation 2016 — Part I: Sierra Nevada mountains

This summer we travelled through several western states over a period of about three weeks. Major attractions included watching the Perseid meteor shower in the Nevada desert, backpacking in the eastern Sierra Nevada mountains of California, viewing the waterfalls on the Oregon side of the Columbia Gorge, and hiking in the northern Cascades of Washington. The weather was good with light rain on two days and heavy rain once—and that was on the drive home.

Here are some photos from Nevada and the eastern Sierra Nevada mountains.

Car camping near <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Boundary_Peak_(Nevada)" target="_blank">Boundary Peak</a> in the Nevada desert. This was the peak night of the Perseid meteor shower and the dark skies resulted in a great show.
Car camping near Boundary Peak in the Nevada desert. This was the peak night of the Perseid meteor shower and the dark skies resulted in a great show.

Continue reading →

Biking and hiking in Durango

After an early start to the summer rainy season, the pattern reverted back to hot and dry across the southwest. And not just for a day or two but for more than a week. Two weeks, even.

With continued warm and dry weather expected we headed to Durango, Colorado, for a few days of mountain biking and hiking. We already had a few ideas for trails and we figured we’d get more while in town.

On our first day of riding we did the Dry Fork–Colorado Trail–Hoffheins loop with an extension on the Colorado Trail to the local “high point” giving us a total of about 17 miles. There were plenty of wildflowers along the Colorado Trail section along with occasional views of distant peaks. We also saw a family of wild turkey but, as usual, they were easier to see than to photograph.

The start of Dry Fork Trail under a stand of oak trees.
The start of Dry Fork Trail under a stand of oak trees.
Dry Fork and Colorado Trail intersection. The map says this is "unmarked" and "easy to miss." Need to update the map!
Dry Fork and Colorado Trail intersection. The map says this is “unmarked” and “easy to miss.” Need to update the map!
The wildflowers were fabulous!
The wildflowers were fabulous!
Climbing through the ferns and aspen on the Colorado Trail.
Climbing through the ferns and aspen on the Colorado Trail.
Love those cattle guard crossings!
Love those cattle guard crossings!

Our next ride was Lower Hermosa Creek trail. We opted to hire a shuttle to drop us off at the high point. From here, it was a 5-mile downhill cruise on well-maintained Forest Service roads along East Hermosa Creek (and within sight of Purgatory Ski Resort) before hitting the actual trail head for Lower Hermosa Creek. From the trail head it’s about 19 miles to the trail terminus.

An easy cruise above East Hermosa Creek.
An easy cruise above East Hermosa Creek.
Smooth and flowy double-track along Lower Hermosa Creek trail.
Smooth and flowy double-track along Lower Hermosa Creek trail.
Single track along Lower Hermosa Creek.
Single track along Lower Hermosa Creek.

Wildflowers were in abundance and water was flowing down the creek. The first third of the trail was a double-track and open to motorized vehicles although we saw none. We stopped often to enjoy the scenery and I took many photos along this section. The middle third was narrow single track with the creek far below us. And the final third may have had more uphill than downhill resulting a lot of HAB (i.e., Hike-a-Bike). Alas, there are no photos from this section—we were too busy trying to ride!

And the final stretch was a fast downhill on gravel and paved roads from the trail terminus to where we had parked our car earlier that morning.

Larkspur along the Engineer Mountain trail.
Larkspur along the Engineer Mountain trail.
Engineer Mountain from the meadows.
Engineer Mountain from the meadows.
Wildflowers and mountain.
Wildflowers and mountain.

For our final day we decided to put the bikes away and hike up Engineer Mountain from Molas Pass. Our goal was fairly modest; we were not seeking to hike to the summit but only to the wildflower-filled meadows. We were not disappointed with the wildflowers. No, not at all!