Tag: National Parks

Hiking the Grand Canyon: Rim to Rim* to Rim

I have always wanted to hike the Rim-to-Rim-to-Rim traverse of the Grand Canyon. That is, start at one Rim, hike down to the Colorado River, hike up to the opposite Rim, then reverse back to the beginning.

From the South Kaibab Trail the North Rim is a long ways away...
From the South Kaibab Trail the North Rim is a long ways away…

I’ve done a single traverse before from the North Rim to the South Rim but never the R2R2R as it’s called. On the other hand, my significant other has done it a couple of times and keeps asking me to join her. So last week we set out to walk (WALK, not RUN!) the R2R2R of the Grand Canyon. We started mid morning on the South Rim and descended the South Kaibab Trail. Being in no hurry, we took a comfortable pace so that we could actually enjoy the hike and scenery. The weather was pleasant: clear skies, breezy, a bit cool at the top and a bit warm at the bottom.

There were many flowers in bloom along the trail. This is "Prince's Plume."
There were many flowers in bloom along the trail. This is “Prince’s Plume.”

After a refreshing stop at Phantom Ranch where we had lunch and drank plenty of fluids we began the hike up the North Kaibab Trail to the North Rim. The last of the spring snowmelt was rushing down Bright Angel Creek and the roar of the water was loud enough to make conversation difficult. Crossing the stream would have been foolish but there is no need: all crossings have well- built bridges.

Still a long way to go to reach the Colorado River.
Still a long way to go to reach the Colorado River.

By the time we reached Cottonwood campground it was time to eat again and we had dinner as the sun slipped below the high walls of Bright Angel Canyon. The wind, which normally diminishes in the evening, became stronger. First it was annoying, then it became strong enough to blow dirt. Finally, as we were a mile or so above Roaring Springs, the wind nearly blew me off my feet. The sun had already set and it was quite dark as we climbed this part of the trail. It’s narrow with substantial cliffs on the side. The thought of being blown off my feet and… well, you know… was unnerving. So, with only about 3 1/2 miles to go, we decided to err on the side of safety and we turned back.

Rock art in Bright Angel Canyon. Hikers had placed these small stones in the canyon wall.
Rock art in Bright Angel Canyon. Hikers had placed these small stones in the canyon wall.

We walked in the dark until about midnight and then took a nap on a queen-sized flat rock. Never thought I could fall asleep on a rock but it was easy. I awoke to stare at the stars and listen to the thundering of the water in Bright Angel Creek. What a magnificent place to be! Just the two of us — and whatever wild creatures may have been watching us.

We walked back to Phantom Ranch and the Colorado River and then began the difficult climb back up South Kaibab Trail. About halfway up we had a magnificent sunrise. Not too much later we saw some long-distance runners heading downhill towards us. We chatted for a minute and gave them some information on trail conditions. And then they were off.

If we had done this a day earlier, we would have seen two women running R2R2R in an attempt to beat the “Fastest Known Time” for women on this trail. And they succeeded!

And just a few days later the record was broken again!

I’m happy to walk the R2R2R. Running not required.

Trail running on the Arizona Trail near Walnut Canyon

The Arizona Trail is a National Scenic Trail from that traverses the state from Mexico to Utah. Currently 96% of the trail is complete. In the Flagstaff area are a couple of extraordinary sections of the trail — including the portion that runs along the rim of Walnut Canyon.

Within a few minutes of leaving the trailhead the trail drops down into a side canyon that provides an expansive view of the main canyon. But if you are running the trail you need to keep your eyes on the trail and not the view. This is a good reason to stop and take a good look — or a photograph — before resuming the run.

Arizona Trail along the edge of Walnut Canyon.
Arizona Trail along the edge of Walnut Canyon.

Portions of this trail have been re-routed recently. This includes the sections that drop down into and climb back out of the side canyon. The old sections were becoming eroded and difficult to maintain. The new sections have a more gradual slope and will shed water better so that the trail resists erosion.

One of the best features of this trail run is heading out to one of the many overlooks and peering into the canyon. Because this area was inhabited by the Sinagua there are many artifacts lying around and with sharp eyes pieces of pottery are easily spotted. Enjoy — but please leave them where you found them!

This run is 8-miles out and back and has a lot of climbing — in both directions. The trail is well marked and can be quite busy at times with hikers, runners, mountain bikers, and equestrians. Share the trail and enjoy!

Amazing colors at Petrified Forest National Park

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Although I have lived in Arizona for over a decade I have never visited Petrified Forest National Park even though it is only a two hour drive from Flagstaff. We usually drive by the Park entrance while heading somewhere else and promise ourselves that we will visit it someday.

A petrified tree in the Crystal Forest area.
A petrified tree in the Crystal Forest area.

Finally — we visited the Park. And it’s truly amazing. But not just for the petrified remains of 225 million year old trees from the Late Triassic. The colors that can be found here are simply beautiful. Within Petrified Forest National Park, the layers of the colorful Chinle Formation — from which the Painted Desert gets its name — include the Blue Mesa Member, the Sonsela Member, the Petrified Forest Member, and the Owl Rock Member.

Multi-colored vistas of the Blue Mesa Badlands.
Multi-colored vistas of the Blue Mesa Badlands.

The Blue Mesa Member consists of thick deposits of grey, blue, purple, and green mudstones and minor sandstone beds.

The Petrified Forest Member consists of thick sequences of reddish mudstones and brown sandstone layers and the Owl Rock Member consists of pinkish-orange mudstones mixed with hard, thin layers of limestone.

Detail of a petrified tree. Petrified wood at Petrified Forest National Park is almost solid quartz.
Detail of a petrified tree. Petrified wood at Petrified Forest National Park is almost solid quartz.

The Sonsela Member contains brown, cross-bedded sandstone; blue, grey, and purple mudstones and numerous small grey and white sandstone beds; and white cross-bedded sandstone and conglomerate of rounded pebbles and cobbles which contains the logs of the Rainbow Forest.

Petroglyphs at the Puerco Pueblo site in Petrified Forest National Park.
Petroglyphs at the Puerco Pueblo site in Petrified Forest National Park.

And there are also archeological sites including old pueblos and petroglyphs.

Winter in Moab, Utah

On a recent trip to Colorado we made a stop in Moab, Utah. This is a place that hosts a large number of tourists each year, including visitors to Arches and Canyonlands National Parks, which are located close by. The town also hosts large numbers of mountain bikers and off-roaders. At least that’s the case during the warmer months of spring, summer, and fall.

The Windows area of Arches National Park at sunset during the winter.
The Windows area of Arches National Park at sunset during the winter.

In the winter there are fewer visitors and the trails are mostly empty. It’s a great time of year to visit if you don’t mind the cooler temperatures, shorter days, and occasional snow and ice on the trails and roads.

Frozen streamside in Negro Bill Canyon near Moab, Utah.
Frozen streamside in Negro Bill Canyon near Moab, Utah.

We took advantage of the low-crowd season to hike a few trails in the area, including Negro Bill Canyon and Corona Arch. On both trails we saw only a few other people. With so few people, it’s easy to set up a tripod and get some great photographs and not worry about hikers, bikers, jeeps, or other distractions finding their way into your images!