Tag: slot canyon

Arches and Slot Canyons in Capitol Reef National Park

A narrow but shallow section giving a view of the sky.

Just like our previous trip, this was a spur of the moment decision. Except, this time, there were no campsites available at Capitol Reef National Park. In fact, all campsites were reserved for months in advance. This is quite different from our last visit here in 1988 (a long time ago, I know) when we just rolled in to the campground and grabbed a great site. Those days are long gone, I think.

We did some research online and found a nice Bed & Breakfast located just a few miles outside of the park; we made reservations for three nights at the Sunlit Oasis B&B in Notom, Utah. It’s very nice and we enjoyed our stay there.

We arrived at the B&B in late afternoon and sat down to dinner a few minutes later—then watched the fading light on the eastern hills. With a really nice wraparound deck, we found ourselves outside watching the darkness settle in until it got just a bit too chilly.

Sunset view from the deck at Sunlit Oasis Bed & Breakfast.
Sunset view from the deck at Sunlit Oasis Bed & Breakfast.

The next morning, we were off early for a day of hiking in the park. Our plan was to do a couple of short hikes in different sections of the park. What we did, instead, was one long hike.

The Elijah Cutler Behunin Cabin in Capitol Reef National Park.
The Elijah Cutler Behunin Cabin in Capitol Reef National Park.
Narrow section of Grand Wash in Capitol Reef National Park.
Narrow section of Grand Wash in Capitol Reef National Park.

We started in Grand Wash—a canyon with some narrows along the short hike. Early morning provided deep shadows in the narrow sections so I spent a fair bit of time shooting photographs. At the upper end of the wash is another trailhead and parking area. Instead of turning around, which was our plan, we continued up the Cassidy Arch Trail. Whereas the Grand Wash Trail has little in the way of elevation gain, Cassidy Arch trail wastes no time in climbing up out of the canyon onto the upper sandstone benches. Apparently, the arch is named after Butch Cassidy who may have had a hideout in these regions.

First view of Cassidy Arch.
First view of Cassidy Arch.
Cassidy Arch, Capitol Reef National Park.
Cassidy Arch, Capitol Reef National Park.

Along the way, a couple passed us carrying ropes and other technical gear. We learned that they were headed to the arch to start a series of seven rappels into the slot canyons below. Sounds exciting! I managed to get several interesting photos of the two as they descended into the canyon below. Afterwards, we could still hear them as they set up for subsequent rappels but we were unable to see them.

Rappelling below Cassidy Arch, Capitol Reef N.P.
Rappelling below Cassidy Arch, Capitol Reef N.P.
Rappelling below Cassidy Arch, Capitol Reef N.P.
Rappelling below Cassidy Arch, Capitol Reef N.P.

We returned via Grand Wash in mid-afternoon. By this time, the sun was high overhead and there was little in the way of shade or photogenic scenery. After returning to the car, we drove farther into the park and along Capitol Reef Scenic Road towards Capitol Gorge. The last time we visited this park, this road was gravel. It is now paved. Progress!

Our plans for the next day were a bit more ambitious. We found a couple of interesting slot canyons that had their starting points just a short distance from our B&B, then traveled westward and into the park. The middle and upper stretches of these canyons had many narrows and slots. One might even have water in this dry year. We chose Burro Wash which has less water. On this trip, it had none.

The beginning section of Burro Wash, Capitol Reef National Park.
The beginning section of Burro Wash, Capitol Reef National Park.
Some climbing moves are required to get past the chockstones in Burro Wash.
Some climbing moves are required to get past the chockstones in Burro Wash.

The first part of the hike was through dry grasslands and sandy washes but soon enough we entered the confines of the canyon. Several locations had chockstones blocking the route and we had to find ways to climb up and over. Most were pretty easy; some were trickier. The narrows got really narrow. Several times we just barely had enough width for a boot at the bottom and we had to turn our shoulders slightly sideways. On top of that, the slot was actually tilted a few degrees so you could not stand up straight. What fun!

Approaching the first set of narrows in Burro Wash.
Approaching the first set of narrows in Burro Wash.
Wide enough to walk. Not all the narrows and slot sections were this easy.
Wide enough to walk. Not all the narrows and slot sections were this easy.
Narrow and tilted! Burro Wash, Capitol Reef National Park.
Narrow and tilted! Burro Wash, Capitol Reef National Park.
Looking back at what we had just traversed. This required ducking under some rocks and climbing others. And it's tilted.
Looking back at what we had just traversed. This required ducking under some rocks and climbing others. And it’s tilted.
A narrow but shallow section giving a view of the sky.
A narrow but shallow section giving a view of the sky.

Eventually, we reached a chockstone that was more challenging that the rest. We took a lunch break at this spot. A few minutes later, a younger hiker ambled by and found a way up and over the chockstone. He returned about 15 minutes later and said we JUST HAD TO SEE THE NEXT SECTION! With his help, we ascended the large chockstone and found ourselves in a very narrow, deep and dark slot. After a short distance it ended in an open area with a large pouroff — and no way to continue. After a short time spent enjoying this spot, we returned to our lunch spot and packs.

End of the trail. Behind is a tall pouroff preventing further travel.
End of the trail. Behind is a tall pouroff preventing further travel.
A deep and dark section of the slot canyon in Burro Wash.
A deep and dark section of the slot canyon in Burro Wash.
A wavy section of the canyon on our way back out.
A wavy section of the canyon on our way back out.

Clouds had begun to build. There was no threat of rain reaching the ground—and certainly no threat of a flash flood—but being in a slot canyon with rain nearby is never my idea of a smart thing. Fortunately, the clouds cut down on the intensity of the sun and the hike back out through the grasslands and sandy washes was much more comfortable than it would have been otherwise.

We arrived back at the car and began to put our gear away. I took off my shoes to empty out the sand and was astounded at how much sand was in them. How was it even possible for this much sand and my feet to coexist in the shoes?

Petroglyph panel in Capitol Reef National Park.
Petroglyph panel in Capitol Reef National Park.
Orchards and meadows in the main visitor area of Capitol Reef National Park.
Orchards and meadows in the main visitor area of Capitol Reef National Park.

We left early the next morning and drove westward through the park and then on Utah 12. It’s been several decades since I’ve been on this road and it was fun to see again. There are some great views from many locations along the highway.

A section of Utah 12 northeast of Escalante.
A section of Utah 12 northeast of Escalante.

We stopped in the small town of Escalante for lunch and then continued home.

Fun trip!

A Peach of a Canyon

Earlier this year we hiked through the upper reaches of West Clear Creek canyon. After driving as far as possible on rough forest roads, we hiked the remainder of the distance to the Tramway trail head. From here, it was a steep descent from the canyon rim to the canyon floor.

The start of the steep descent into West Clear Creek.
The start of the steep descent into West Clear Creek.

We hiked downstream for a few hours then turned around and headed upstream, passing our original descent trail, and exiting the canyon using the Maxwell Trail.

One location in the canyon was especially wonderful. First, there was a short and narrow side canyon with vertical walls that lent a sense of isolation from the rest of the canyon and world. Second, we found a peach tree with small peaches. How this tree came to be in this canyon is unknown but the most likely explanation is someone ate a peach and tossed the pit—and it grew in this most unlikely of places.

On that trip I carried a small camera that was unable to do justice to the amazing side canyon. So on this return trip I carried a different camera along with a tripod so I could attempt to get some better images. And we were also interested in the peach tree.

A peach tree deep within West Clear Creek canyon.
A peach tree deep within West Clear Creek canyon.

The tree had many peaches and the branches were weighted down as a result. I grabbed a peach and bit into it—and was surprised that it was dry and hard. Not juicy at all. And no real taste or flavor. But, you know what? You can’t tell that from the photographs. They look wonderful, don’t they?

[Edit: 09/10/2014. We took one peach home with us and allowed it to ripen in a paper bag for several days. The result was juicy and delicious!]

A small stream trickles down the steep walls on the side canyon.
A small stream trickles down the steep walls on the side canyon.
Side canyon in West Clear Creek.
Side canyon in West Clear Creek.
Water splashes into a small pool in a side canyon in West Clear Creek.
Water splashes into a small pool in a side canyon in West Clear Creek.

When we visited the side canyon earlier this year it was dry. Now, however, an above normal rainfall this summer has produced a small stream of water that cascades over the edge and into a small pool of water. Here are some of the images taken that day.

Four days in Death Valley National Park

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Although Death Valley National Park is only a six-hour drive from Flagstaff I have never visited the park. That finally changed the first week of January when we made a four-day visit. We left Flagstaff well before sunrise so that we could arrive in the park around noon time and then spend the afternoon visiting sites and hiking.

One of our first stops was the well-known Zabriskie Point. Many photographs have been taken here—as well as a movie by the same name—and these images should look familiar as a result. From there we went to the visitors center to get some ideas for the afternoon. We ended up on Artists Drive—known for its multicolored rocks.

Zabriskie Point.
Zabriskie Point.
Artist's Drive.
Artist’s Drive.

The highlight of the day was a late afternoon and early evening visit to Badwater Basin—a salt flat that contains the lowest elevation in North America (282 feet below sea level). The salt flats are noted for the hexagonal salt crust that forms after rains and standing water evaporate. We arrived as the sun was setting and began with the warm colors of sunset and transformed into the cool colors of early evening. Wonderful!

Sunset colors at Badwater Basin.
Sunset colors at Badwater Basin.
Twilight colors at Badwater Basin.
Twilight colors at Badwater Basin.
Delicate salt crystals, Badwater Basin.
Delicate salt crystals, Badwater Basin.

The next day started with a sunrise photo session on the Mesquite Flat Sand Dunes. Well, not quite sunrise—we were a few minutes late! The morning light was quite nice on the dunes but what I really wanted was sand without footprints. A bit of searching turned up this nice bit of pristine sand.

Morning light at Mesquite Flat Sand Dunes.
Morning light at Mesquite Flat Sand Dunes.
Panorama of Mesquite Flat Sand Dunes.
Panorama of Mesquite Flat Sand Dunes.

We followed that with an afternoon hike up Fall Canyon (near the better known Titus Canyon). Fall Canyon is accessible by foot traffic only and has more of a backcountry feel than its neighbor. The canyon reaches a pour-over that can be passed with a bit of climbing and scrambling. This leads to a narrow, serpentine, water-polished section of the canyon that is truly magnificent. Hikers that turn back at the pour-over are missing a great section—perhaps even the best section—of the canyon.

Massive walls and slots of Fall Canyon.
Massive walls and slots of Fall Canyon.
Narrow slots of Fall Canyon.
Narrow slots of Fall Canyon.

We returned to the Mesquite Flat Sand Dunes after dark to stargaze and create star trail photographs of the night sky with the dunes lighted by the crescent moon.

Star trails over Mesquite Flat Sand Dunes.
Star trails over Mesquite Flat Sand Dunes.

Another morning, another visit to the sand dunes and this time we were there well before sunrise. The temperature was probably around 40 degrees—which was fine as long as there was no breeze. There was a breeze. The sunrise colors on the dunes were spectacular and we were rewarded with these delicately sculpted dunes with beautiful interplay between light and shadow.

Delicately sculpted dunes at sunrise.
Delicately sculpted dunes at sunrise.
Morning light at Mesquite Flat Sand Dunes.
Morning light at Mesquite Flat Sand Dunes.

After a quick lunch we went to Mosaic Canyon. This is a slot canyon best known for its smooth and polished marble. After a short hike through the marble narrows the canyon appeared to be blocked by rockfall but a bypass was possible to one side—and onwards we went finding another section of narrows.

Polished marble of Mosaic Canyon.
Polished marble of Mosaic Canyon.
The second narrows in Mosaic Canyon.
The second narrows section in Mosaic Canyon.

We paid a visit to the Furnace Creek Ranger Station to get some information and came away with some great hiking ideas. So, late in the afternoon we headed to Salt Creek. This is a running—albeit salty—creek through the desert. We were astonished at the marvelous riparian zone and wetlands formed by this creek. We finished the hike with very nice sunset colors over the peaks and reflected in the waters.

Salt Creek---water in Death Valley.
Salt Creek—water in Death Valley.
Sunset along the Salt Creek Trail.
Sunset along the Salt Creek Trail.

Our last hike was in the lightly visited Sidewinder Canyon. The attraction here is the many small side canyons that are exceptionally narrow and deep with little light penetrating downwards. Flashlights are useful here.

Narrow side canyon in Sidewinder Canyon.
Narrow side canyon in Sidewinder Canyon.
Salt flats in the south end of the valley.
Salt flats in the south end of the valley.

And, then, it was time to drive home. We very much enjoyed the days of hiking in pleasant weather in the middle of winter. I would like to return—soon—and visit many of the other wonderful locations in Death Valley National Park.

A Return Visit to Cathedral Wash

It’s been many years since I have visited Cathedral Wash — located near Lee’s Ferry, Arizona — and it was time to return. My last trip was so long ago that I was shooting with a film camera!

Cathedral Wash narrows into a sinuous slot with reflected light illuminating the walls.
Cathedral Wash narrows into a sinuous slot with reflected light illuminating the walls.
One of the many water holes encountered in the wash.
One of the many water holes encountered in the wash.

With perfect weather — warm temperatures, clear skies, and light winds — it was a good time to visit this short wash that leads down to the Colorado River. What we hadn’t thought about — but should have — was that the extremely rainy summer season might have left lots of water and mud in the wash. It had.

The very first water/mud hole we encountered could not be bypassed on the ledges above and we resorted to removing our shoes and socks and wading through the thigh deep water. We were concerned that there would be other water/mud holes and they might not be passable at all but it turned out this one — the first one — was the only problem. All others were easily bypassed.

Hiking along the benches above the canyon floor in Cathedral Wash.
Hiking along the benches above the canyon floor in Cathedral Wash.
Cathedral Wash turns out to be a great place for yoga!
Cathedral Wash turns out to be a great place for yoga!

Once back at the car we drove the short distance from the wash to the river. We were impressed with the tremendous amount of erosion that had occurred during the rainy season. Washes had been deeply scoured and many large boulders from the cliffs above had been washed down to the road. It was an ineresting lesson in how quickly geological change can actually occur.

Buckskin Gulch sans water and mud

Three of us recently did a day hike in Buckskin Gulch. This is a well-known slot canyon on the Utah side of the Utah/Arizona border. The canyon is about 13 miles long making it one of the longest slot canyons in the southwest — and possibly the world.

A climbing move is required to bypass this boulder in Wire Pass -- a tributary of Buckskin Gulch. The pile of boulders at the bottom helps.
A climbing move is required to bypass this boulder in Wire Pass — a tributary of Buckskin Gulch. The pile of boulders at the bottom helps.

In normal years rainfall during the summer, fall, and winter leaves ankle- to knee-deep pools of cold water in the canyon. Hiking through here under these conditions is tricky since the pools are often scoured by the rushing water which may result in one side being deep and the other shallow as the sand or rocks build up. With muddy water it is impossible to see under the surface of the water and a walking pole is used to probe carefully before placing each step. A mis-step can result in going from knee-deep water to chest-deep water in one quick step!

Dry and sandy narrows through Buckskin Gulch.
Dry and sandy narrows through Buckskin Gulch.

Some years, however, the fall and winter months are dry and the canyon floor is dry in the spring. That was the case this year. After a wet fall, a dry winter and spring followed and this allowed the canyon floor to be water free — at least in the first few miles that we traveled.

Reflected light illuminates a far wall deep within Buckskin Gulch.
Reflected light illuminates a far wall deep within Buckskin Gulch.

The first time we did this hike (2004) it was dry and we mistakenly assumed this was normal. Returning to hike in 2005, 2006, and 2007, we were greeted each time with water. So it was a pleasant surprise to return after a few years absence and find it dry.

A narrow beam of light penetrates deep into the narrows of Buckskin Gulch and gently illuminates the side walls of the canyon.
A narrow beam of light penetrates deep into the narrows of Buckskin Gulch and gently illuminates the side walls of the canyon.

What was less pleasant was seeing how visitors to this amazing place have left graffiti along the canyon walls. There was no graffiti the first three times we visited and only one defacement the last time. This time there was graffiti in many locations in the first few miles of the canyon. It is truly saddening that people would do such a thing in a beautiful place.

Exquisitely textured walls found within Buckskin Gulch.
Exquisitely textured walls found within Buckskin Gulch.

Still, we had a great time walking a few miles down canyon, eating our lunch in the cool and quiet narrows of the slot, and enjoying our brief visit to this remarkable place.